Pigeons at Jama Masjid fly high. They soar up from the enormous courtyard and settle on the imposing dome. But I went higher. Thanks to the more-than-100-feet-tall southern minaret (closest to Gate No. 1). Beware, the steps are steep and stairs dark but it’s beautiful at the top. A panoramic 360-degree view there exposes Delhi in all its splendour and ugliness.
Signboard To The Minar
Watching 21st century Delhi from a 17th century minaret.
Red Fort ramparts, a little distance away, shimmer through a mist of factory fumes while ugly buildings fill up the remaining canvass. But immediate scenes are more striking. The serenity of the masjid courtyard, on one side. The teeming commerce of Urdu Bazaar, on the other. More contrasts. Red sandstone versus concrete shacks. 17th century versus 21st century. And the best part: I’m so high while pigeons are so low.
Tickets Rs 10 (Indians), Rs 50 (foreigners)
Hello, koi hai?
Feeling Dizzy
If we too had wings…
Same Tower, Older Times
[By Charles John Griffiths, an excerpt from A Narrative of the siege of Delhi]
It is 1857. The British are facing the largest uprising they would ever encounter in India. Delhi has been seized by East India Company’s own Indian troops. The tragic Mughal Emperor Bahardur Shah Zafar is helpless in Red Fort. His Delhi wallas are battered and starving. Many are dying. It is in such a setting that Griffiths, a young lieutenant, clambers atop the Jama Masjid tower to oversee the smouldering ruins of this strife-scarred city.
The tower scene
We ascended one of the minarets, about 120 feet high, obtaining a garnd view of the imperial city and the surrounding country. To the south extended the ruins of Ferozabad, or ancient Delhi; to the east lay the River Jumna, and to the west and north stretched a forest of trees and gardens, among which were seen the suburbs of the city, the now historic ridge in the far distance hiding the whole camp from our view. From our elevated position a just estimate could be formed of the great size of Delhi: the city lay spread out below with its vast area of streets, its palaces, mosques, and temples, all silent and deserted, in striking contrast to the din and turmoil of a few days back.
Instructions for tower visitors, as prescribed by Jama Masjid authorities
On the tower, smoking, consuming intoxicants, playing music, and defacing the walls are strictly prohibited.
Unaccompanied women (oh, not again) and children are not allowed to visit the tower.
An unaccompanied woman
Nice post, Mohib. Having climbed the same tower, I can vouch for the mosque’s view and it’s beauty.
Sadly, the one thing that does stick in my mind from my visit there is that a group of men got together to try and chase a Bangladeshi man out of the mosque. The man demanded, instead, that they remove the “kaffirs.” Even though nobody seemed ready to heed his advice, we decided it would be best to leave at that point.
I read recently that at the Jagannath temple in Puri that “foreign” Hindus from Hare Krishna organizations and Indonesia were being kicked out by the priests, who said they “suspected that the foreigners had become Hindus solely for the purpose of visiting the temple.”
What fools, chasing people out of places of worship, but nobody can stop them.
i dont understand the point ur trying to make in the post.. maybe mayank u could jus elaborate..
thank you.
Hi, wonderful observation and article, little clarify why westernised or libral muslim (so called) have an issue with this word “Unaccompanied women ” ur words (oh, not again) were disappointing, i would like to share some knowledge, correct me if i am wrong.
the above said rule “Unaccompanied women” may be due to Masjid in india is primarily the place of Men Worshiping and praying place, secondly since this masjid has become the national tourism attraction based on the safety norms the rule has implimented, as girls are very tendy and emotional and not much aware of the masjid guidlines cuz they don’t go often (for instance Makkah masjid in Hyderabad, majority of women do not follow the masjid guidlines, they have made the premises as garden).
if you are looking this guidlines in Saudi arabia rule of women not going out without men (even for commercial purpose), i am sorry to say you have not observe just outside this masjid and lajpat nagar market area.
we being a visitor we can’t judge the risk and consquences those managment and people around masjid go through from the opponent and everyday threat, its not one day affair, so i think any rule to avoid or prevent possible risk is should be allowed and followed.
Pardon for my spelling and grammer mistake.
Another Beautiful Muslim heritage which all Indians am sure will be proud of.
Why does this blog not have any article from a south Indian Muslim? I have now been a visitor here for about 6 months and am deeply dissapointed that all muslim issues and history seem to revolve around north indian muslims. Come on guys get someone from Kerala or Karnataka to write something. I am sure you will be get a fresh perspective.
Mayank I read one of your other blogs and I did like this satire very much.
http://hindumuslimindia.blogspot.com/2006/09/fiction-satire-im-hindu-and-i-believe.html
I agree that the educated hindus and muslims are the ones who dream of a hindu or a muslim india and generate hate based on this.
Hats off 2 tis great piece of mughlai architectural wonder which draws people from far & wide.Jama Masjid stands as a majestic & royal mosque,best among the rich cultural heritage of India.i feel proud 2 b a old delhite.Shahjahanabad or the walled city as it is popularly known has no walls and people all over the world r welcome 2 see its glorious & magnificent structures exuding the aura of the mughals.The warm hearted old delhites are a perfect examples of gracious hosts and hospitality is an inherent part of the old delhi culture as the night long eatery joints stand testimony to it . I adore Old Delhi. I wish people explore more of old delhi & cast away their narrow thinking restricting it to a congested place.Well like they say it takes all sorts of people to make this world!