It was another day of my childhood. I ran out of the door of our compound into what was a never-ending grassland. I’d heard my cousin calling me out by ringing his cycle bell.
As I came out, he called me from the street a little far away. “Today, I’ll ride my cycle on the road,” he shouted, waving at me, “And not on the grass… Too many trees there for a good ride. And the grass drags your speed you know. You’ll know when you learn cycling.” Big brother would speak like an expert. “All you have to do right now is to watch me speed up. I’ll show you the dust I’m gonna raise. Like a car!” As he rode past me, I saw some dust trailing behind the wheels and I shouted, “Dust! That’s like a real car!”
During those times, when I used to come out of the compound of my house, I’d step into an endless grove. It was a vast orchard, the end of which was out of sight; perhaps even out of the imagination of a child that I was. With all densely grown up trees — apple, pear, almond, walnut, peach, what not — that covered everything that was visible, it seemed as if even the sunlight would fail to penetrate and touch the ground beneath.
At a distant spot, a brick-house could be seen through the gaps between the barks of the trees. And it’s tin roof was visible through the holes between the leaves. It was the only inhabitance to meet the eyes. But unfortunately it belonged to the guard. He was the one person who stood between us and the tempting fruits.
But the mother of all fears was the two-storey mud-house just inside the orchard. The children believed that it was haunted, haunted by a ghost, who lived there and came out only in the night. We called him Waaiwopph. God knows where the name came from! The mud-house was originally thought to belong to the previous guard, who was mercilessly thrown out by the Waaiwopph. Some kids had seen him one night, wearing a white robe and a skull cap. I’d seen him only once, in a nightmare. He didn’t have a cap!
There was one more view of this sight, a different scene altogether! And that was from our rooftop…
You could see all the tree tops close together, spread out like a green carpet on a vast area bound only on the far edge by tall, slender trees, and dotted in between by the graceful Chinars. These formed an endless line, which was actually the shore of the world famous signature of this city of Srinagar, the Dal. Through the line of those trees, at some spots, you could see the silver shine — the serene waters of the Dal, dazzling under the sun. At some spots, you could see the colour of the wood of the house-boats. At times you’d spot the shrine of Hazratbal. Then further still, beyond the Boulevard, the small mountain ranges backed by the mighty Himalayas would kiss the bright blue sky from the top, forming in a perfect compliment, a horizon straight from a classical painting.
But that was quite a long time back… in the middle of 1980s… I’m quite older now. But more than myself, my dwelling wears a worn out, heaving look…
The orchard is no longer there. Some years back, it was partitioned. Partitioned endlessly. Barbed wires in every direction came up to demarcate each individual property that was sold. The trees were chopped down one by one. Leaving the interiors lay naked. Now the sun would shine as if to poke fun at the bare ground below.
For nearly two decades, my neighbours were a million trees. Now buildings sprouted at every other step. Every wrong foot. Then there are these lanes and by lanes with walls high and ugly, a legacy of these violent years. And the grassy paths that once existed have turned into dusty tracks.
Talk about that other view, from the top… The green blanket has been replaced by a canopy of tinned roofs — coloured, patchy, rusty, hideous. The Dal might still be there somewhere. But tomorrow…? Seventy-five square kilometers some centuries back. Twenty-five a few decades back. And barely twelve today. This Dal!
Yes, I’m quite older now.
Today. It’s another day. I’m not a child anymore. As I step out of the door of my compound, I see a huge wall right in front, almost like a slap on my face. Behind me, the small garden seems like a piece of heaven. Still, I walk towards the street outside. I see a car at a distance speeding towards me. As it passes me by, I lose my sight in the thick cloud of dust trailing behind it, and I close my eyes. I hold my breath, cover my face with both my palms and turn around. I clear the lump in my throat and get back inside to heave a sigh.
In my little piece of heaven left over, I sit quietly.
Photo: Dal Lake
As Salamu Aliekum…
Brother Gul Nawaz Qanungo:
Very beautifully constructed article, you narrated it perfectly….
The problem you are facing and the way you have seen the nature changed around Dal Lake, it’s the story of the whole world. As a child in school, I was used to hear that “Human Needs/Wants are Endless”.
Now, when I’m grown up, i have realized it. Anyways, we can pray, protest and educated the masses about this acute problem, which can very well reached to the level of Global Warming….
Oh, Allah please give as ways to save your most beautiful planet, EARTH…Aameen….
Wassalam….
Dear Qanungo,
I envy your past, having seen Dal Lake serene and clean surrounded with lush green orchads and orchads alone. Dal Lake is fast turning to marsh and we all are mute spectators. Lot of talking has been done by those who feel guilty of having done nothing practicaly to protect it.We have voted to power, in the past, those who initiated massive construction on the Boulevard. Even Govt. set up a Convention Centre and Centaur Hotel in Dal Lake. What a pity, where were you those days. Didnt we all vote for this. Didnt we feel proud of that. We used to sing “Yee Kare Tee Kare Bab kare lolo”. But the Bab. …… For the development of tourism infrastructure we raped the beautiful Dal lake and your landscape. It is because of this your have to put hanki at nose while walk on the boulevard after a car passes by, to stop dust kissing the nostrils. Wait my dear, we will see soon Dal turning into a foul smelling gangrine in Srinagar. We can not even hold a conference in covention Complex because of bad smell of Dal ver soon. Dal is destined to dry because we inhabitants are thichk skin and care hoots for environment. It will be Dal which will be irritant for tourists because of its foul smelling marsh. We are all responsible for it. We must do something. Even courts could not do much in this regard, though they made sincere efforts but our elite and tourism related Houseboat owners are not ready to do anything for it. Politicians are worried about the vote bank which the inhabitants of Dal hold. They hardly bother about their health, sanitation and living conditions or the dal itself. The rich houseboat owners must take to some other business and leave the dal and comman man must do its bit to protect lest we are wiped out alongwith Dal Lake. When Saint Sheikh NoorudDin Vali RA reached at the mounts of Kral Sangri he refused to enter the Dal area because the breath taking beauty of Dal Lake mesmerised him and he said it is nopthing less than “Janah”. He said that he must not enter in it because he wanted Janah to be awarded bu God hereafter, that was the beauty of Dal Lake. My heart also bleeds for what we all did to this janah and how insensitive we all have been towards it. God alone can save us now from the desaster of this dying dal Lake. Jansab, Jammu